Ethical Dilemmas: Balancing Sustainability and Luxury in Fur Fashion
The ever-changing nature of fashion often sees outdated trends suddenly becoming fashionable again. While some fashion fads, such as cultural appropriation in fashion shows, the controversial “heroin chic” look, and the impractical hobble skirt, are unlikely to make a comeback, fur, despite its history of protests and criticism, seems to be making a resurgence.
Despite notable bans on fur in the fashion industry, including those by Gucci and its parent company Kering, several fashion houses, including Michael Kors, Prada, Simone Rocha, Miu Miu, and Saint Laurent, have incorporated fur or fur-like materials in their recent collections. Some designers have opted for ethical alternatives, such as using shearling as a byproduct of the meat industry, and faux fur made from more sustainable materials.
Symbol of Enduring Luxury
The revival of fur in fashion may be attributed to its status as a symbol of enduring luxury, similar to iconic fashion items like a Hermès handbag or a tweed jacket. Additionally, vintage fur is often more affordable than new faux fur counterparts, and concerns about animal welfare are less pronounced with vintage fur. Furthermore, some designers are considering real fur as a more ethical alternative to faux fur, which is non-biodegradable and made from plastic.
Yves Salomon’s Views on Fur in Fashion
Yves Salomon, a renowned Paris-based furrier supplying fashion houses with furs, expressed that the allure of fur is rooted in its beauty and the emotions it evokes when worn. He likened the emotional appeal of a fur coat to that of jewelry, emphasizing its glamorous and transformative nature.
Salomon observed a surge in the popularity of fur among younger consumers, particularly on platforms like TikTok, where the “mob wife” aesthetic and mid-century styles have embraced fur as a defining element. He noted that many younger consumers view real fur as a more sustainable alternative to faux fur, citing its recyclability and longevity as critical factors.
Commitment to Ethical Sourcing
In his commitment to ethical sourcing, Salomon ensures that every fur coat can be traced back to its farm of origin, with a focus on animal welfare and ethical practices. He emphasized the importance of proper animal treatment in maintaining the quality of the fur used in his coats.
Success in Menswear
Salomon also highlighted the success of fur in fashion, particularly in menswear, with brands like Louis Vuitton and Dior experiencing significant achievements with the material.
Overall, Salomon’s perspective underscores the complex and evolving conversation surrounding fur in fashion, balancing its emotional appeal, sustainability, and ethical considerations.
Perspectives on Fur in Fashion
Yves Salomon stressed the importance of protecting Native communities reliant on fur as a source of livelihood, citing the example of the Inuit of North America. He expressed a commitment to preserving the craftsmanship associated with fur coats, mirroring concerns shared by many fashion leaders in France regarding the preservation of traditional artisanal skills.
Sustainability and Ethical Use
On the sustainability front, Francis highlighted the biodegradability of fur, underscoring its potential for sustainable and ethical use. However, she acknowledged the increased awareness of animal rights issues and the need to address past concerns related to animal cruelty in fur production.
Subversion of Traditional Association
While some advocate for a return to a slower, more sustainable approach to fur production, acknowledging its historical roots before commercialization, younger designers like the duo behind Vaquera expressed a different perspective. They subverted the traditional association of fur with wealth and luxury by incorporating faux fur in their collection as a commentary on the repulsiveness of contemporary wealth, emphasizing their view of fur as inherently distasteful, whether real or faux.
In summary, the resurgence of fur in fashion is driven by a combination of factors, including its association with timeless luxury, affordability compared to faux fur, and the perceived ethical concerns surrounding faux fur as a non-biodegradable material. The varied perspectives reflect the ongoing debate within the fashion industry regarding fur’s ethical, sustainable, and symbolic implications.
Source:
Rachel Tashjian (April 7, 2024). Can fur make a comeback?. The Washington Post. https://www.washingtonpost.com/style/fashion/2024/04/07/fur-prada-saint-laurent/. Accessed April 8, 2024
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